Nepal Diary: Gorakhpur Trip 1
Posted: April 29, 2008 Filed under: My bandwagon 9 Comments »What are the odds of me coming back to Nepal, going to Lumbini, and finally visiting Gorakhpur? I don’t think it was likely, so while I was in Bhairahawa why not hit roads to Gorakhpur India.
I had been to India just once before, took a flight from Kathmandu to Delhi, took a cab from Delhi airport to All India Medical Institute, and same way back to Kathmandu. My point is I haven’t seen true India. Gorakhpur would definitely give me more insight, and I would also get opportunity to visit Gorakhnath Temple.
I don’t know if it is a myth or there is a touch of truth, my acquaintances were worried of possible harassment by Indian Police. I was firm believer in law and would argue that unless we break law the police have no rights to obstruct. But my acquaintances, being knowledgeable of those parts, stuck with their task and rented a jeep with Indian license plate. The driver was frequent traveler through the boarder and very familiar with Gorakhpur. My acquaintances suggested me to not carry my bulky DSLR, fearing it will be seized by Bihari cops citing some phony custom rules. They shared some of their stories; I couldn’t believe how Nepalese were being treated. I was taught to stand up to those Bihari cops, if they smell fear in you they will rip you off. No one however could stop me from carrying a point and shoot camera.
The drive from Bhairahawa to Gorakhpur was about 3 hours but Sunauli, the boarder, was just about 15 minutes. I was excited; after I get back to States I could boast my colleagues that I visited India as well. The Tata Sumo was fairly comfortable, the roads were pretty good, and songs from the movie “Om Shanti Om” was refreshing.
The only thing scary so far was the speed of other vehicles; I felt they moved way fast than the limitation of road, sometimes even posing threat to us. I could request my driver to move slower but seeing other over crowded vehicles moving at 100km/hr with passengers hanging like Tarzans was real scary. People might call me a coward for showcasing my “Americanized Safety Concerns”, but being in America I learnt true value of human life, better safe than sorry. I wished I had taken picture of those over crowded vehicles, for some reason it didn’t cross my mind at all.
Other thing that I was appalled with was the indecency of the male highway travelers (as well as the locals) to pee almost every where, front on. I know we have that problem in Nepal as well, we don’t have enough highway rest areas, but Nepalese people at least had decency of going far off to the bushes or pee showing their back.
Gorakhnath Temple was at the edge of the city limit, so that was our first stop. Unlike Nepalese Temples Gorakhnath was very clean. There were ‘Baba’s’ (priest) standing in every corner inside the temple (in their booths), they will call you up and give ‘Tika’ and ask blatantly for ‘Dakshina’ (money). I got a sense that these Baba’s have to submit a tender to claim those spots. I had no change, all IRs 100 bills so I asked him if he accepts dollar bill, he enthusiastically obliged. I gave him $1, the Baba was happy but my acquaintances gave me a big glare. They were afraid that Baba will make someone to get after me as he now knows I carry Dollars.
No matter how clean the Temple was, the toilets were pathetic. I noticed this in Lumbini too. I don’t know why the eastern culture is not willing to invest much in the sanitation. I remember my school’s principal saying when I was a kid “if you want to know how clean a family is then don’t be fooled by their sitting room, check their toilet”.
I have already written a post about the traffic, population density etc in Kathmandu. What I saw inside Gorakhpur was off the charts, problems of Kathmandu seemed way dwarf in comparison.
To be continued………
nicE jOurneY ! and problem is same everywhere…
ha ha ha !!
“I was appalled with the indecency of the male highway travelers (as well as the locals) to pee almost every where, front on. “
Its a quite realistic picture you have given about Gorakhpur and the Temple along with the money lusty priests. & your aquaintances are right you should take care of not getting weak in knees at any point or these bastards of UP Police will take you for a ride and finally they will not forget to tell you that they have so many things to communicate to you unspoken obligation these filthy persons a re doing for you .
Anyway, Nice to know that you were at my hometown . I miss
my hometown with all its sorry state of affairs .
But then as in Gorakhpur , we should not reflect our weaker side.Its a rule of thumb.
Bye
in one way u might have enjoed Gorakhpur. its true that speed limit is just onething we all ignore in India. i remeber my neighbour hood bhaiyya who take 21 kisd with their school bags to school in guess wat.. an Autorikshaw..:)
BS
Aakar,
It sure was good journey, and yes problems are similar in many places.
NNepali,
That’s literally what happened…that was real cultural shock
Rajesh,
Welcome to my blog and thanks for your comment. Fortunately, we didn’t have any problems with those cops. You are absolutely right about not reflecting our weaker side, and there were lot positives too. Perhaps I can do more justice to Gorakhpur in my next sequel. But, shocking stuffs tend to get more and immediate attention than good stuffs, so please don’t be offended if I miss few positives.
Beena,
but I did see a lot of people in every public vehicle, every one of those was overcrowded.
Like I mentioned in my post, I rue taking pictures of those vehicles. I did not see 21 kids with school bag in Auto rickshaw
It was sheer luck that you crossed the corder without any physical and mental assault by Indian cops. My experience was ALWAYS horrible. Wallet snatched, musical instruments confiscated, hijack our bikes, and what not !!! Jesus.
If I were working in NSA, I would kidnap them and dump them into Guantanamo Bay.
Enjoyed your travel diary Prajwoljee. My India travel is limited, I was in Raxaul for a few hours with my friends:)
I want to travel to many places in India some day.
There are many things in India….
Both good and bad….
Though Gorakhpur is in Uttar Pradesh, the cops there too are not very different from Bihari one. I too have some bad experiences with them.
Nepali Akash,
Looks like you have loads of boarder side stories. “If I were working in NSA, I would kidnap them and dump them into Guantanamo Bay” speaks volume of your frustration .
Basanta Ji,
We don’t have traveling culture in Nepal, perhaps new generation would get more opportunities with changing culture. One learns a lot with travel.
There are many places in India and Nepal I wished I had traveled to, but now being halfway across the world it’s even harder for me.
Keshuvko,
Thanks for correcting me for calling cops in Gorakhpur as Bihari’s
So my acquaintances were right, everyone seems to have problem there, this ain’t fair. The law enforcers are acting illegally to harass foreign citizens
And I’m glad to get out of there unscathed